#Ultimaker 2 Lid.
An acrylic lid for the Ultimaker 2, 2+ and Extended to help keep dust off the printer bead and maintain a more stable thermal environment.
- Use 3mm Acrylic.
- Use clear if you want to see your print when the lid is fitted
- Suggest using cast acrylic to reduce internal forces in sheets.
- Laser cutting guides are for 600x400 sheets.
- Use Tensol 12 glue to glue the lid together.
- V1.0: Initial version - ignore this.
- V1.1: First built version. Option for hole in the top to allow mounting of camera.
- V1.2: Features a larger opening at the back to allow 2x draft excluder brush sets to be added and an opening at the front for the Raspberry Pi 7" Touch screen.
- V1.2.1: Do no use - Builds on V1.2 but is 40mm higher which makes better use of the acrylic when in 600x400 sheets. Appears Pi Display design changed.
- V1.2.2: Builds on V1.2.1 with better cutout for Pi Display, 40mm fan for pi cooling, 80 or 120mm fan cutouts at back.
V1.2.2 is the best option. However if you don't want the Pi Display mount on the front remove this in Inkscape or the laser cutter software.
Draft excluder used is Wickes "Brush Draught Excluder" - White PVCu. Product Id:218004 (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Door-Brush-Draught-Excluder-White-838mm/p/218004)
V1.1 has a smaller opening for the Ultimaker boden tube and cables, if you don't want to use the draft excluder this version is better. Use the base of V1.1 as well as the opening is a different size.
If you don't use the draft excluded version cover the sharp edges where the boden tube goes through to prevent damadge. Some 6-8mm pipe the of the same material used for the boden tube, split along the length makes for a great cover.
Width: 322mm Height: 220mm (240mm for V1.2.1 and V1.2.2) Depth: 335mm
Glue: Use Tensol 12. http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/87-2330U.PDF
Glue only in a well ventilated area. Don't spend too long in the area.
Store the glue in the fridge for 24 hours before use and keep refrigerated between use, this increases the viscosity of the glue and makes it easier to work with.
The lid is glued in 4 stages with a 3 hour gap between each stage to allow the glue to set.
Black electrical tape is used to hold the box together when gluing, this works well as it's easily removed and can be stretched over corners to help keep the joints tight.
- You may wish to anneal the acrylic first to reduce the risk of cracking when glued. (See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate))
- If using cast acrylic this may not be such an issue as the inner forces of the acrylic are less.
- Cut ~32 x 4-6 inch pieces of electrical tape ready to hold the box panels in place.
- Remove the all protective covering off all the pieces, you don't want that glued into your lid.
- Ensure you have a clean flat working surface and kitchen towel or similar to wipe up any dripped glue.
- Glue will run through the lid joints onto the work bench. Working on a paper cover will result in the paper being stuck to the lid, use wood as the work top (suggest not kitchen work top!)
When gluing:
- Don't apply too much glue.
- A 1-2mm bead size is ample. This will get drawn into the joint and give a high glue surface area.
- Try to get glue only where it is needed otherwise it eats into the finished surface and looks horrible. (i.e. don't dribble)
- Don't let the glue dispenser warm to much as the glue becomes very runny and is difficult to work with very quickly. Always return the glue to the fridge.
- You may wish to move the lid slightly every now and then shortly after gluing to remove any excess glue of the surface the lid is sitting on. Don't wipe the lid through as this will smear glue over it and look horrible.
- Place the lid base (the piece with the large hole in from sheet 3) on a flat surface with the back opening at the back left as it would be when fitted on the printer.
- Put 2 pieces of electrical tape on the bottom of the base piece on each side coming out about 3 inches ready to connect to a side/front/back panel.
- Place the back panel on ensuring the large hole matches up with the cut out on the base and is on the left hand side. This allows the cable/boden tube to go through the lid into the ultimaker.
- Pull the tape tight and press against the back panel.
- Place a side panel onto one side, hold in place with the tape from the base, also add 2 pieces of tape along the back panel to side panel edge to hold them tight
- Repeat for the other side.
- Repeat for the front panel ensuring the cutout for the Pi Display is at the top, finally taping the front panel to the two side panels.
- The box should now be in a good shape and look almost as it would sat on the printer, held together sturdily with the electrical tape. Do not fit the lid yet
- Run a bead of Tensol 12 glue along the connecting 4 edges of the base (front/back and sides).
- Do not glue up the edges at this stage as the glue will run down and form a big blob in the corner.
- Fit the top now to ensure the whole thing is square whist the glue sets. Ensure there is no glue around the top so it doesn't stick.
- Return glue bottle to fridge.
- Put kettle on and make a nice cup of tea.
- Wait for 3 hours for the glue to set.
- Rotate the lid 180 degrees so the back panel is nearest to you.
- Flip forwards so the top is now facing you and the back panel is laying flat on the bench.
- Remove the top.
- Run a bead of glue along both the mating edges of the back and side panels (should be horizontal on the bench now).
- Run the glue from the furthest away point stopping 20mm before getting to the lid top (i.e. going from lid bottom to top)
- Be sure not to glue all the way to the lid top to prevent risk of gluing the top on at this stage.
- Return glue bottle to fridge.
- Provided there is no glue near the lid connection you may wish to put the lid on to help keep the box square, suggest waiting a bit to let the glue spread first to ensure it won't creep into the top of the lid.
- Put kettle on and make a nice cup of tea.
- Wait for 3 hours for the glue to set.
- Rotate the box 180 degrees so the last glued edge is now in the air and the remaining two side unglued edged are flat on the bench. Remove the lid if fitted.
- Repeat gluing as above, run a bead of glue from the back to the front along the side edges stopping 20 mm before the lid.
- Return glue bottle to fridge and again wait for the glue to start to set so it is no longer moving and fit the lid if you wish.
- Put kettle on and make a nice cup of tea.
- Wait for 3 hours to allow glue to set.
- Ensure that the top if fitted squarely, add some electrical tape top hold it in place against the sides/back/front.
- Rotate the lid forward so the lid top is now flat on the bench.
- You can now glue the 4 edges of the top to the sides/front/back panels by putting your hand through the large hole in the base panel.
- Don't tilt the glue bottle when doing this otherwise you'll get glue on the inside of the lid top. Tilt the bottle only when about to glue the edges.
- Return glue bottle to fridge and wait 3 hours for the glue to set.
- Remove the electrical tape.
- Put kettle on and make a nice cup of tea you certainly deserve one now!
The glue should fully harden in 3 weeks, however it is usable once the final 3 hour wait is over.
Hardening to reduce the 3 weeks can be speeded up by heating AFTER 24 hours, refer to the glue instructions for details on this.
- Cut 2 lengths of draft excluder brush to fit the rear gap.
- Try to cut it so that one of the holes in the draft excluder lines up with a hole in the acrylic otherwise it will look odd
- The brush should sit on the outside of the back of the lid with the fat part sitting in the gap towards the inside of the lid, this provides protection against the sharp edges of the lid for the moving cables and boden tube
- Mark then drill the other 2 holes in each brush of the draft excluder.
- You may wish to crimp the lower end of each brush to stop the bristles coming out now it's been cut.
- Fit both brushes using M3 machine screws, bolts and washers.
- Cut 2x outlines from 3mm acrylic for the display (see V1.2 files).
- If using V1.2 this may well come out of the offcuts from the back and front panel and the base panel.
- Attach the Pi Display PCB onto the display and connect up the flex cables
- Attach the display PCB to Pi flex cable (do not connect to the Pi at this time)
- Attach the 5v & GND cables to the display PCB
- Plug the Micro USB cable into the display PCB ** If using a Pi 3 with WiFi the voltage drop on the USB cable may be to large so use 2x USB cables, one for the Pi and one for the display and link only the GND connection
- Fit the smaller acrylic display mount first to the display
- Fit the slightly larger one next (this gives a stepped impression around the bottom and sides of the display
- Ensure the cut out on the inside is at the bottom where the flex cable is.
- No need to glue these, they are held in place by the display.
- Offer the display to the front of the lid carefully feeding in the USB, and interconnect cables.
- The display flex cables go at the bottom and the display pcb to pi interconnect flex on the right hand side.
- Mound the display to the lid using M3 machine screws and washers on the inside to spread the load of the forces (don't over tighten) - suggest nylon bolts.
- Mount the Pi onto the display as you would do normally.
- Run the power cable to the bottom of the lid and around the edge to the right and hold in place with sticky feet and cable ties (ensure it won't get snagged with the printer head).
- Take the USB cable out of the lid via the small hole at the back right (V1.2+ only)
- Don't fix the cable to the ultimaker as this will hinder you removing the lid.
- Optionally include Ethernet cable if you're not using Wi-Fi
- Optionally include a USB camera on the back of the lid to monitor the roll, run the USB cable for that with the power USB cable
- Optionally include a USB cable to go to the USB port on the Ultimaker
- Optionally include an internal USB camera. Mount this to the lid back/side/front/top as you like with sticky fixers.
- Optionally attach a Pi Camera and mount that as desired.
- Optionally attach a Pi Hat to light up or monitor the temperature/humidity inside the lid.
- Optionally run OctoPi/OctoPrint on the Pi (NB: This doesn't appear to work overly well with the printer, we use it only for webcam monitoring).