fEnki is an open source (free) version of Enki (gbEnki). fEnki is fully compatible with gbEnki. You can use gbEnki cases, plates and firmware on your fEnki.
Gerber files can be downloaded in the releases section.
Actually, the photo is of gEnki, as soon as gEnki is assembled I will update the photo.
- 42/36 switches
- Easily accessible power switch and reset button
- Bluetooth support
- 3 status LEDs
- Double sided board design
- Choc spacing
| Component | Model | Qty (42-key) | Qty (36-key) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reset Button | SMD 3x4x2mm | 2 | 2 |
| MCU | nice!nano v2 | 2 | 2 |
| Diodes | 1N4148WS T4 | 42 | 36 |
| Power Switch | BSI-10H | 2 | 2 |
| Battery | 301230 | 2 | 2 |
| LEDs | SMD 0603 | 6 | 6 |
| Resistors | 0603 1–10k | 6 | 6 |
| Keyboard Switches | Choc v1 | 42 | 36 |
| Sockets | PH3.5 |
| Component | Model | Qty (42-key) | Qty (36-key) |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCBs | 1.6 | 2 | 2 |
| Cover PCBs | 0.8-1.6 | 2 | 2 |
| Spacers | m2x8+ | 4 | 4 |
| Screws | m2x4 T5* | 12 | 12 |
| Screws | m2x5 T5* | 8 | 8 |
| Nuts | m2 | 12 | 12 |
| Bumpons | 5x2mm | 14 | 14 |
| Magnets for case | disc 7x2mm | 8+ | 8+ |
*If you are doing a plate assembly you need screws 1mm longer
Solder all diodes except the thumb cluster diodes on the top side of the PCB. The thumb cluster diodes are slightly elevated and should be soldered on the bottom side. All diodes must face the same direction: align the stripe on the diode body with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (or with the round pad if the stripe is not visible).
Solder the LEDs on the top side of the PCB.
Solder resistors on the bottom side of the PCB. You can replace them later if you find the LEDs too bright.
Mount and solder the reset button on the top side.
Solder the toggle switch on the top side. It's recommended to solder the legs from both sides for durability. Clip off any excess legs.
Solder the sockets. Optionally, you can sand the socket edges for a cleaner look. Clip off any protruding legs.
Solder the jumpers on the bottom side, near the sockets and power switch. If you're struggling with this step, reduce the soldering temperature to around 200–250°C.
Only if needed — mount and solder the TRRS connector.
Insert male pin headers into the sockets, place the microcontroller on top, clip the protruding legs, then solder.
Remove the microcontroller and thoroughly clean the PCB. If the reset button or switch is not working properly, apply isopropyl alcohol inside, click the button repeatedly, then blow it out. At this point, you can test the circuit by shorting key pins with tweezers.
Mount and solder the switches. Clip off any protruding legs. Optionally, screw in mounting screws and secure them with nuts. Depending on the switch model, screws may get slightly stuck between switches — this is generally not an issue.
Solder the battery, observing correct polarity. You can secure it with double-sided tape.
Do a final cleaning of the PCB.
Flash the firmware. Flashing the bootloader is optional — it is only required to enable LED blinking during boot mode.
Screw the PCB into the case. Optionally, install magnets and rubber feet. If nuts don’t fit into the slots, you can pre-thread them onto a screw, insert into the slot, heat with a soldering iron, then unscrew. If nuts are loose, use a small drop of super glue.
Secure the standoffs to the case.
Mount and secure the case cover.
Place the keycaps onto the switches. Done!