Replies: 13 comments 4 replies
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Hi, You have loaded (flashed) the software onto the Raspberry Pi Pico Microcontroller because you are getting that output on the serial port. The numbers after “BME280” and “MPU6050” are zeros indicating that the two sensors aren’t installed yet or aren’t working. I don’t know what step you are currently working on , but when you get to this step: https://github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/4.-Main-Board-2#payload-sensor-testing the sensors will be installed and you should get non zero data. If you are at this step but are getting all zeros then I can help you troubleshoot it. Alan Good luck! |
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Hi Alan,When I tested Raspberry Pi on main board everything was working and the CW and transmission blue led light came on and so the first test worked. However after putting the filter on main board the radio transmission and the Pico 0 on the board did not work. The blue led would not turn on and the Pico 0 did not turn on with the green flashing led.I will check it some more. It looks like I soldered it correctly done from what I could see.Thanks,Gregory Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 20, 2025, at 7:43 AM, Alan Johnston ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi,
You have loaded (flashed) the software onto the Raspberry Pi Pico Microcontroller because you are getting that output on the serial port.
The numbers after “BME280” and “MPU6050” are zeros indicating that the two sensors aren’t installed yet or aren’t working.
I don’t know what step you are currently working on , but when you get to this step: https://github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/4.-Main-Board-2#payload-sensor-testing the sensors will be installed and you should get non zero data. If you are at this step but are getting all zeros then I can help you troubleshoot it.
Alan
Good luck!
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Hi Alan,
I am at Step 4 Payload Board Part 2. In your following You Tube at the
23:00 minute mark there is a test after installing software on Pico 0 WH
and attaching it to the mainboard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgLzFeG1YnQ&t=549s
Unfortunately, my Blue LED light does not light up when the Pico was
installed on the main board. No transmission. No CW was transmitted. I
saw the Raspberry Pi light up and flash both the Red LED and the Green LED
light up but it would not move forward with the program and the Pico LED
did not flash or light up. When the software was loaded on the Pico from
the computer I saw the green LED flash on it.
I did check the Pico before I put it on the main board. I saw: 23:02:07.877
-> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00 -0.00 -0.00
GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP -6.00
23:02:07.877 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:08.935 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00
-0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 1.50
23:02:08.935 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:09.991 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00
-0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 1.50
23:02:09.991 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:11.047 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00
-0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP -6.00
My solder work looked good and my first test with the Raspberry Pi on the
main board worked and I was able to hear the CW.
So I am not sure if I need to look at errors related to soldering or if I
need to try checking the software or both but that is the spot I am in
now. A voltmeter may be helpful to check to see if power is going through
the pins for the Pico. I have not had a chance to check it with a
voltmeter. Any trouble shooting ideas or suggestions? I understand it
could be a number of things.
Thank you,
Gregory
…On Fri, Jun 20, 2025 at 1:49 PM Gregory Wetzel ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi Alan,
When I tested Raspberry Pi on main board everything was working and the CW
and transmission blue led light came on and so the first test worked.
However after putting the filter on main board the radio transmission and
the Pico 0 on the board did not work. The blue led would not turn on and
the Pico 0 did not turn on with the green flashing led.
I will check it some more. It looks like I soldered it correctly done
from what I could see.
Thanks,
Gregory
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 20, 2025, at 7:43 AM, Alan Johnston ***@***.***>
wrote:
Hi,
You have loaded (flashed) the software onto the Raspberry Pi Pico
Microcontroller because you are getting that output on the serial port.
The numbers after “BME280” and “MPU6050” are zeros indicating that the two
sensors aren’t installed yet or aren’t working.
I don’t know what step you are currently working on , but when you get to
this step:
https://github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/4.-Main-Board-2#payload-sensor-testing
the sensors will be installed and you should get non zero data. If you are
at this step but are getting all zeros then I can help you troubleshoot it.
Alan
Good luck!
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Hi Alan,
Yes, I got it to work!! It was a solder issue on the pins on J2 and J3.
So I simply did not have enough solde on the pins. So going back and
soldering them was what I needed.
I do not fully understand how to flash the software on the Pico. I am
going to check out a book but any website recommendations to learn how to
flash the Pico. I would not have been able to flash it if I did not find
someone at the local Maker Group.
Thank you for your help!! I am moving on with building it and will keep
you posted.
Gregory
…On Sat, Jun 21, 2025 at 6:34 AM Alan Johnston ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi Gregory,
I would try this. Carefully unplug the Pico micro controller from the Main
board. You will need to move it a little at a time from either end so the
pins don’t bend when it comes out.
Then, try powering up the Main board with just the Pi Zero plugged in at
the bottom. See if you get the Red LED5 on, then the Green LED3 then the
Blue LED 4 come on. If it doesn’t, try powering the Pi Zero directly with a
micro USB cable. Double check that diodes D1 and D4 are soldered in and
with the right polarity.
You can also try connecting the unplugged Pico directly into your computer
again to see if the built in LED blinks every second. If it doesn’t, it
might need to be reflashed.
If both work separately but not when both are plugged in, check for solder
bridges on J2 and J3. If you have a voltmeter, you can check for 3.3V on
the Pico between pins 37 and 36.
Good luck, and let me know how the testing goes!
Alan
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Hi,
Not exactly running correctly. While CW signal is sent and the
transmission LED lights up along with the Red LED and the Green LED. Mode
2 did not work. IAlso Pico is still not flashing with the little green Led
every second. It does not flash at all. APRS in mode 1 did not work. It
sounded like it gave one APRS over the radio but all the rest did not make
any more transactions or sounds. The slow scan tv did not work either in
mode 4.
So everything related to the Raspberry Pi works but not with the Pico.
I will try a voltmeter next but I think the software may be an issue. On
Step 2 of the instructions it shows a different display from the Pico on
the Raspberry Pis software.
According to the instructions in step 2 it should look like this after
loading software on the Pico:
Pico W detected!
Reading gyro offsets from EEPROM
…-2.2400000095
-0.8700000048
-3.6099998951
Temperature calibration data from EEPROM
6.0000000000
181.0000000000
24.0000000000
169.0000000000
OK BME280 24.58 1002.06 93.57 41.64 MPU6050 2.91 -0.93 1.56 0.20 0.10
0.82 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 27.00
Squelch: 0
OK BME280 24.83 1002.10 93.27 41.44 MPU6050 2.45 -0.93 0.71 0.21 0.10
0.81 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 27.00
Squelch: 0
My Pico never said Reading gyro offsets from EEPROM. or Temperature
calibration data from EEPROM. I used the help of someone at the Maker
Space so I am not exactly sure how he tried to flash or load the software
on the Pico but I only saw the bottom part of information displayed. This
sort of stuff:: OK BME280 24.58 1002.06 93.57 41.64 MPU6050 2.91 -0.93
1.56 0.20 0.10 0.82 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 27.00
Squelch: 0
OK BME280 24.83 1002.10 93.27 41.44 MPU6050 2.45 -0.93 0.71 0.21 0.10
0.81 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 27.00
Squelch: 0
I can see I need to learn how to flash the Pico and I am a little confused
on how to do it.
Thanks,
Gregory
On Sat, Jun 21, 2025 at 4:14 PM Gregory Wetzel ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi Alan,
Yes, I got it to work!! It was a solder issue on the pins on J2 and J3.
So I simply did not have enough solde on the pins. So going back and
soldering them was what I needed.
I do not fully understand how to flash the software on the Pico. I am
going to check out a book but any website recommendations to learn how to
flash the Pico. I would not have been able to flash it if I did not find
someone at the local Maker Group.
Thank you for your help!! I am moving on with building it and will keep
you posted.
Gregory
On Sat, Jun 21, 2025 at 6:34 AM Alan Johnston ***@***.***>
wrote:
> Hi Gregory,
>
> I would try this. Carefully unplug the Pico micro controller from the
> Main board. You will need to move it a little at a time from either end so
> the pins don’t bend when it comes out.
>
> Then, try powering up the Main board with just the Pi Zero plugged in at
> the bottom. See if you get the Red LED5 on, then the Green LED3 then the
> Blue LED 4 come on. If it doesn’t, try powering the Pi Zero directly with a
> micro USB cable. Double check that diodes D1 and D4 are soldered in and
> with the right polarity.
>
> You can also try connecting the unplugged Pico directly into your
> computer again to see if the built in LED blinks every second. If it
> doesn’t, it might need to be reflashed.
>
> If both work separately but not when both are plugged in, check for
> solder bridges on J2 and J3. If you have a voltmeter, you can check for
> 3.3V on the Pico between pins 37 and 36.
>
> Good luck, and let me know how the testing goes!
>
> Alan
>
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Hi Gregory, I don’t think the issue is related to flashing the Pico. It has no effect on APRS mode, FSK mode, or SSTV mode. Here is the simple way to flash the software onto the Pico. Download load the UF2 file onto your computer. Plug your Raspberry Pi Pico or Pico W into your computer using the micro USB port while holding down the BOOTSEL button (white button on the Pico). It should mount as a drive RPI-RP2. The other way to do it is to compile the code using the Arduino IDE. The instructions for doing that are here: https://github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/wiki/Adding-New-Sensors Those messages about reading gyro offsets only happen when the Pico is powered up in the first 5 seconds. It is hard to catch them on the Serial Monitor, and they only have to do with the accuracy of the sensor readings. If your Pico flashes every second when it is unplugged but stops flashing when you plug it into the board, it means there is an issue with soldering on the Main board. To diagnose the APRS, FSK, and SSTV issues, you need to log into your Pi Zero and copy and paste some log files so I can see them. Once you have logged into your Pi Zero, type these commands and copy and paste the output: cd You can also provide photos of the top and bottom of your Main board showing the soldering. Good luck! Alan |
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Still something with solder work because I can not get the Pico powered. I checked my solders. Added more solder to the pins. Found voltmeter and checked Pin 37 and it has 3.29 volts, checked 36 and it has 0 volts. Polarity may be an issue but still not sure where the problem is located. |
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Hi Gregory, Thanks for sharing the photos. I have marked up two photos. The red pins look like they need more solder, so that you can't see any of the hole and the solder is in a nice teardrop shape. The yellow pins might have too much solder. Try touching up these joints. Also, J12 and J5 are convenient places to measure 3.3V and ground using your voltmeter. If you still have trouble, I have some further troubleshooting advice. Good luck! |
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I touched up solder work. I will take another look at the joints.
Still the Pico did not light the green flashing light every second.
WIth the J12 and J5 voltmeter check I switched it to DC at 20V and the
reading was 1.13V.
Thanks,
Gregory
…On Mon, Jun 23, 2025 at 6:44 AM Alan Johnston ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi Gregory,
Thanks for sharing the photos. I have marked up two photos. The red pins
look like they need more solder, so that you can't see any of the hole and
the solder is in a nice teardrop shape. The yellow pins might have too much
solder. Try touching up these joints.
457714603-f82a2108-486e-4c23-b14e-4ff46c118037.jpeg (view on web)
<https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cd50c57c-3b6a-44d3-be30-c4f3349c1977>
457764405-94e4bcc6-36db-4fbf-a7b3-5290063c69fa.jpeg (view on web)
<https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/f3ea2bfe-9f4f-40bd-9534-a42fb1667a12>
Also, J12 and J5 are convenient places to measure 3.3V and ground using
your voltmeter.
If you still have trouble, I have some further troubleshooting advice.
Good luck!
Alan
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Hi Gregory, Could you try soldering in diode D2? It is at the bottom right of the PCB. It is a 1N5817 diode, similar to the two you already soldered in. See if that makes a difference. Alan |
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Hi Gregory, You found a bug in the instructions! In an earlier version of the hardware, the Pico was powered without needing diode D2 installed, but the current v2 hardware needs D2 installed or it doesn't get any power, as you discovered. I have updated the Wiki instructions so the Pico is not plugged in and tested until Step 4.4 when it will blink once per second if all goes well. Also, with the sensors installed, the values won't all be zeros as well. I still need to update the video instructions. Thanks for pointing out this bug! Good luck with the rest of your build. Alan |
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What I saw was the following information: 23:02:07.877 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00 -0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP -6.00
23:02:07.877 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:08.935 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00 -0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 1.50
23:02:08.935 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:09.991 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00 -0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP 1.50
23:02:09.991 -> Squelch: 1
23:02:11.047 -> OK BME280 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MPU6050 -0.02 -0.02 -0.02 -0.00 -0.00 -0.00 GPS 0.0000 0.0000 0.00 TMP -6.00
I am not sure what this information is but I think something is not correct.
I am not sure what I need to do to load the software on the Pico 0 WH. Any suggestions to help me? I did double checked my board and it looks like my solder work is good and does not appear to be the problem. I tried following the instructions and sought help at the local Maker Space but it appears we did something wrong.
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