Replies: 20 comments 85 replies
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Hia, |
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Thank you. |
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Sure. Yes, I tried another power supply, and also tried with a USB-C voltage tester in-line. I notice that the unit displays Vin 5.3, but the USB negotiated PD 20V, and the tester confirms it is outputting 20.24 volts. Also, I think this might be a newer unit. I noticed when in DFU mode, it shows "DFU 2.3B", but any screenshots online show "DFU 2.0". Also, this unit came with factory firmware 2.11, but the newest version I can find online is 2.06. I tried the factory firmware 2.06, and the unit works again and was able to solder normally. Thanks. |
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Do you have the link for the 2.06 firmware? I am having the same issue. |
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So the RTip constantly reading high like that is the issue. Any chance you would be willing to (carefully) open your unit and get some photos of the PCB? Miniware appear to be rebranding to MorningTools (https://www.morningtools.com/list/13.html) so you might try there for firmware. |
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Sure. Here are a few. :)
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I got a picture of the board and I think I know what is wrong. Looks like the micro controller was swapped from the STM32. |
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Yeah I think I know what you mean. |
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I have the same problem. One thing that I noticed was that the voltage show on the OLED was always too low (5 - 16V, it changes when I unplug it and plug it back in). I also tested different power supplies and IronOS versions (2.20 and 2.22). When using the default firmware from Miniware, it shows 20 Volts with the same cable and power supply and everything works fine. I just got the MHP30 this week and it has the hardware version 1.60 and the same chip as the device from @FLASH993 . |
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I have the same problem. Latest MHP30 with GD32 chip on it and DFU 2.3B. |
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FYI the middle pin of the 3 bottom pins goes to PA9
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Hia, IronOS/source/Core/BSP/MHP30/Pins.h Line 19 in c308fe8 Op-amp is the 8 pin package iirc, near all the resistors. |
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@Ralim I'm truly thankful for your work and it's no my intention to "force" you to do anything. I know free time is sparse... |
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I recently bought the MHP30 from the SainSmart retailer on Amazon. It also has the GD32 fake microcontroller inside. https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Soldering-Preheating-Preheater-Intelligent/dp/B08R6XFPKR Any updates on a fix for this new hardware? |
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No big plans on how to fix this yet; Given Miniware promised they wouldn't keep shipping the GD32 chips as the STM32's had come down in price I was largely pissed. Though they have cut all help entirely a long time ago so also not surprised. Main issue is the tip temp is reading super high all the time (aka like tip is disconnected), so the issue is likely somewhere between thermocouple in the head (outer pair of the 3 pin side) and the input to the microcontroller on PA2. Main job is to follow the wiring from that thermocouple back to the op-amp either in photos or with a multimeter. We expect the layout of tip -> opamp -> microcontroller. |
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Can you note what the tip resistance is ( I'm suspect the newer tips have lower thermal mass if the current tune isnt working well. Before changing this unit to the PID controller; have you looked at tuning the existing controller ( The PID controller is new (introduced in 2.22). There is no autotune, nor do I have time to write one from scratch. If the tip res is reading as |
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Tip Res is 6.0 but it's not reading the value from ADC, its defined in the configuration.h as i saw. Also the temperature on the tip is wrong. MHP30 shows 25, but my thermocouple shows 20. |
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I also have a new mhp30 which has the same symptoms, but bootloops even with the firmware attached here. I have access to a Pinecil breakout and a programmer, maybe I could help getting some traces/logs? |
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witch FW? this one? : https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS/suites/18463297104/artifacts/1070830165 |
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Yep, that one, sorry, I didn't see all the other replies above! I feel like it's something related to the watchdog, since I tried pressing the A button while it boot looped and it kept rebooting in the DFU mode, too. |
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fyi miniware has released a new version of mhp30, mhp50... |
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Just got my MHP30 and I am having the same issue. Really unfortunate that Miniware switched the chips. Hopefully a firmware update can fix this soon? I am willing to help with development if needed but it seems like you all have this covered. |
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You can find the firmwares here, Miniware rebranded (?) as Morningtools |
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Yeah I found those. I am still using the Miniware or Morningtools firmware. Was more just hoping to use ironos since I already use and like it on my pinecil V2. |
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I just got a brand new MHP30 and upon flashing the firmware I get the same problems as others have reported. Additionally, the heater does give an error when I try to flash it with the original firmware from https://e-design.com.cn/en/NewsDetail/4203645.html (The Finder can’t complete the operation because some data in “MHP30APPV206.hex” can’t be read or written. Edit: I could re-flash the original firmware on a windows machine. That part seems to be a Mac related issue. |
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Are the GD and ST chips pin-to-pin compatible? Could I get a STM chip, solder it and flash ironOS? |
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That is a good question. What are the part numbers of both chips? I may be able to look into it tonight. |
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Just sharing hopefully related piece of information: I found this pretty interesting & useful document by accident some time ago. So I'm just placing this comment here hoping it will help someone else too (I'm not an expert in MCUs myself though). This document circles some time by now on the internet so it can be easily obtained from any other source. |
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So after looking at some images of both mhp30 boards with the stm chips and those with the clone chips, the board layout looks identical to me. I would say it might be worth trying to swap the chips inside. You can get them off digikey for less than 10$ per. I just worry about being able to flash the firmware to the new chip. Is the bootloader handled by another chip on the board? |
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I've got an at-this-point sacrificial MHP30 I could try the swap on -- but would appreciate it if there was an explicit confirmation about the STM32 part number on the known-good IronOS boards. The equivalent to the GD chip seems to be the STM32F103TBU6. Additionally, it might not work at all since the device seems thoroughly bricked, I can bootload-flash, but it never successfully boots the factory firmware nor any open source firmware. I think it's possible I fried it in a way which can't be fixed with a chip swap. (But it's not going to be doing anything else, so seems worth a shot) |
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https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS-dfu is the repo for the usb-dfu based replacement. |
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Hmm that's what I have done. It flashes just fine but then nothing happens afterwards. Wonder if I am missing a step. I am flashing it with the following settings: |
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On further inspection after downloading the bootloader the mhp30 does show up as an iron connected to the pine64 flasher. It seems to have partially worked UPDATE: WOW IT WORKS! I was able to program it using the dfu file in the pine64 flasher with the dfu file for the mhp-30! All the functions seem to work and the temp reads correctly now. The bootloader is still a bit weird as nothing shows up on the screen but it definitely enters it if I hold one of the buttons. This is the debug screen |
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Ahh sorry, There was this comment that something recently broke the screen again on the MHP30. Haven't found the culprit yet though (wip). |
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How did you get it to flash with Pine64? |
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Just an update for everyone here, it seems that the latest dev builds of ironOS have fixed this issue! I have flashed one of the latest builds in the actions and it seems to work although there are some things in the settings menus that seem to be in the wrong places. I found out about this from #1909. |
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I've grabbed the build from here and it's still boot looping on my MHP30 :( Upon further testing, it looks like the boot-loop is only present when connected to my PC. If I connect it to the power supply it works! |
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I own a MHP30 (I bought from Adafruit in Dec of 2023) that has the same issue - uploading IronOS V2.22 etc essentially bricks the unit to no heating. I have reverted to Miniware's firmware but I really want to install a working build of IronOS in my MHP30. I can't find a recent build hex file here ... what am I missing, or do I need to build it from a current DEV source? |
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You can find automated builds of the latest work in |
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For me it fixed the issue with not detecting the tip (icon with exclamation mark) but at room temperature (21°C) it shows 120°C and calibrating it at start up doesn't help. |
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Update again, Seems the new dev builds completely break the MHP30. Issues like #2043 and #2036 (possibly #2025 but I never tested this functionality on the old firmware) are now present. If you updated to a working development build do not update! The files have expired in the automated build options so you are unable to go back. I just found this out the hard way :( Only real solution at the moment is to use the default firmware from miniware which isn't the best. I really just need to see if I can swap the chips out on my unit to a genuine stm32 chip like I said I might try last year... |
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I just purchased my MHP30 within the last month. I really wish I would have read these threads before proceeding with flashing IronOS on my MHP30. I tried the V2.22 version and it loaded without an issue, but I got the same error as the OP. I then tried flashing with V2.23 RC1 and fails every time (ERR file). So I tried to flash back to the OEM firmware, and this too fails every time. When in the bootloader, the screen says DFU:2.3B. So right now I'm kind of stuck. I can't flash the latest IronOS and I can't return to the Original 2.11 firmware. Which sucks because now my new little thing is effectively bricked. Is there a way to force these things to re-accept the OEM firmware? |
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You have likely run into the quality of the miniware loader on the new units that use the stm clone chips. Sadly the best fix is a different computer or OS until it works. The larger the firmware the more likely it is to have issues. The .ERR file usually is triggered because something in the transfer occurs out of order. This is commonly caused by windows defender or any other meddler-in-the-middle type anti-virus/malware that tries to inspect files on access. |
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Thank you @Ralim, that seemed to be what it took in the end. Although it was quite the experience. Initially I tried doing it through Raspberry Pi 400 running RPI OS, but that didn't work. Then I dug out an old laptop running Linux Mint and that was where I believe I've had success. I ended up being able to flash up to 2.23 RC1, but it was showing 120C on the screen so I figured something was a bit wonky for now. I see some other folks have posted issues related this condition so I'll not pile on. I then flashed it back to the OEM firmware (2.11) and I think it worked because that's the UI I see now. Strangely it generated an ERR file every time I dropped in the OEM HEX file, but hopefully it's okay now. |
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Welp I finally took the plunge. Just had an STM32F103TBU6 delivered and I am going to attempt to swap the chips. Hopefully it works out and makes my device more functional! |
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Update for anyone who hasn't seen above but if you have enough soldering skill to replace the chip and are willing to spend 7 dollars, it is entirely worth it. |
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Thank you @Sandman224 . Just to confirm, if I replace the chip with a STM32F103TBU6 I can then flash it with IronOS and it works? Or are there further steps involved? Which build did you use? |
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Basically yes. You do have to program the bootloader which requires an ST-link programmer and a USBC breakout. The D+ and D- pins on the USBC breakout when connected to the MHP30 with a USB c to c cable can be used to program the bootloader with the ST software. The latest bootloader from ironos does have a bug for the MHP30 (shocker) that prevents the display from showing anything in DFU mode. I used the official pinecil flasher to flash the OS after finishing uploading the bootloader but there's definitely a better way to do that, which I am sure the bootloader github repo can point you in the correct direction for. |
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@Sandman224 I also successfully did the swap, thanks for your inspiration! I used a USB-C to USB-A cable and a USB-A breakout board connected to my Flipper Zero. I flashed the bootloader using DAP Link on the Flipper and OpenOCD. |
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I was wondering about using my flipper zero but I never figured it out. Interesting to know that's how you do it! |
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I reverse engineered the circuit a bit on my new MHP30 and it looks like temperature is connected to PA2. The sensor seems to be an 100Ω NTC. Some measured points give about: T - V PA2
Hope this helps in getting a working firmware version for this model, not happy with the supplied one. |
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I soldered on the STM32 in a few minutes. Just waiting on my programmer and breakout board from Amazon. |
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I got it to work. I flashed the MHP30_EN.hex in the ST-Link Programmer and it booted right up. |
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Okay so I wiped the flash, then installed bootloader.hex, and installed MHP30_EN.dfu with Pine64. I get a debug menu. I believe all is working but it seems a little buggy. So I guess I am going to have to install new updates with Pine64 from now on, because the original dfu mode no longer works (where you dragged and dropped the file)? |
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I have zero idea what Pine64 has to do with this? Do you mean IronOS-DFU? |
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I just received my new MHP30. I tried it once and it worked fine with the factory firmware. I found this IronOS firmware and wanted to give it a try. I tried 2.22 and then 2.21. When it boots up, the light is yellow. On the left of the display, there is a squiggly line over an exclamation mark. On the right is the settings icon with a 5 next to it. Is there something i need to do first?
I'm using the original power supply with original USB-C cable.
The original firmware on it was 2.11, HW 1.60
Unfortunately, I can't even find the original factory firmware as it looks like the miniware site is down. Argh!
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